Signs of the Times: The Neon Wonders of New Mexico

If you're in with Instagram, you might have noticed that the better part of a wacky tacky road trip is dedicated to searching out the coolest in vintage signs - neon, figural, hand-painted, animated, you name it.  It is a pastime infinitely more pleasurable than spying out-of-state license plates and decidedly less painful than hours of slug bug/punch buggy (a brand of family "fun" for which I am still nursing decades-old bruises).  Freshly rehabilitated, completely defunct, or merely operational, we go nuts for the gravity-defying wonders rising from America's dusty byways.  Our recent road trip across the state of New Mexico yielded a bumper crop of dazzling signs; here are some of our favorites.

Century 21 Motel - Las Cruces, NM
The mid-20th Century was so full of bright ideas and optimism for the 21st Century,
I can't help but feel that we let our forebears down; our contemporary signs are lackluster
and we don't have hover cars!!!

Tommy's Roller Rink - Las Cruces, NM
Apparently, Tommy's was a small chain of roller rinks that
went belly-up after an employees-conspired murder. 

Pancake Alley - Las Cruces, NM
We tried to taste the fruits of Pancake Alley at least three times
but were greeted each time with the worst kind of sign -  "CLOSED."

Cattleman's Steak House - Las Cruces, NM

Royal Host Motel - Las Cruces, NM
Las Cruces' crowning glory!

Town House Motel - Las Cruces, NM
Semi-detached 

(Or)Gan Mountain Lodge - Organ, NM
This is the only game in town for the yearly Harvest Festival.  If you wake
up in a bath tub full of ice, you might be at the Organ Harvest Festival. 

Satellite Inn - Alamogordo, NM
Atom-powered! 

Thunderbird Plaza - Alamogordo, NM

Mr. W. Fireworks Gorilla - Alamogordo, NM
"Mr. W Rules!"

White Sands Motel - Alamogordo, NM
"You don't belong in a place like this!"

Western Scene Motel - Santa Fe, NM
We tried to make the "scene" but there was no vacancy.

King's Rest Court Inn - Santa Fe, NM
Where Santa Fe royalty rests their heads.

Santa Fe Lodge - Santa Fe, NM

Cottonwood Court - Santa Fe, NM
Bless this lil' ol', cotton pickin' sign! 

El Camino Family Restaurant - Socorro, NM
Now this is a sign with balls!

Roadrunner Lounge - Socorro, NM
Roadrunners are kind of "thing" in New Mexico.  Meep! Meep!

Butterfield Stage Motel - Deming, NM
Animated horses at full gallop?!!  SIGN me up!

The last photos in this group are two of my very favorite signs from our journey.  In the interest of full disclosure, I will readily admit that they were taken not within New Mexican state lines but rather in the fair city of El Paso, Texas, where the signs at night are just as big and bright as the state's infamous stars.

Charcoaler Drive-In Restaurant - El Paso, TX
Even if the menu offerings were not delicious (incidentally, they were), this sign left our mouths watetring!

Sunshine Bakeries - El Paso, TX
We almost died twice figuring put how to get close to this sign but it was so worth it!

Knowing that the sum of a state is greater than its signs, we also commit ourselves to learning about the history, the culture, the food, and the people of the places we visit.  But in a world ever more darkened by drab, humorless signage, we'll continue to count on the glorious glow of vintage neon to show us the way.  Can't you read the "Signs?"

"Signs" - Five Man Electric Band

Cheers!

Mr. Tiny

Signs of the Times: The Palms Motor Hotel

Arguably one of America's most recognizable neon masterpieces, the magnificence of The Palms Motor Hotel sign is impossible to overstate.  Twin palms, permanently wind-swayed since 1954, stretch to great heights above a commanding arrow that has directed decades of passing motorists towards a choice, roadside-ogling op.  And ogle they must!

Some neon benders/sign makers would be satisfied with a one-color, one-font, one-sided sign.  The Palms sign was obviously not a product of "some" sign makers;  no less than four colors of neon and no less than five fonts create a tropical paradise in the heart of the Pacific Northwest.

A photo of the lit sign during our stay in 2012.
Sure, the sign needs a little bit of maintenance (neon repair and
the arrow's twinkling lights), but the breathtaking impact is still so great that
even in the dead of winter we could've sworn we felt the warm tradewinds.

A vintage view of The Palms Motor Hotel sign.
Even from the earliest days, The Palms was offering irresistible amenities;
 "Heated Pool" and "Cocktails," what more could newlywed couple ask for?!!
(except for maybe a coin-operated, vibrating bed in the "Bridal Suite")
(Source)

The amenities are all well and good, but we know that the real star of this
multicolor, neon spectacular is that bright blue monkey...and the "Free TV."

Should you find yourself in the Portland area, our recommendation is to immediately visit The Palms Motor Hotel, day or night, to get an incredible view of that amazing sign.  After you have photographed every angle and mopped up the puddle of your neon-sign-loving drool, we suggest you then hit the road for more welcoming accommodations.

"Monkey See, Monkey Do" - The Archies

The Palms Motor Hotel
3801 N Interstate Ave
Portland, OR
(503)287-5788

palmsmotel.com


Cheers!

Mr. Tiny

Signs of the Times: Thunderbird Lodge

It feels slightly disingenuous to issue complaints about how unbearably unseasonably warm it has been this week.  After all, Southern California is often the object of ridicule for its pathetic lack of seasonal changes; we have summer...and two or three days scattered throughout the year that try desperately to disprove the jibes of our climate-challenged neighbors to the north and to the east.  At this point, I suppose that I should be used to the blistering sun and chapped lips but it comes as a surprise every year.  And all I know is that it is HOT!  We're talking 100+ degrees!  Early May should be the time for blossoming trees and twittering birds and cool spring breezes.  Instead we are treated to wildfires, roadkill, and drought.

I know I shouldn't be complaining, but try telling that to my crimson complexion and puddles of perspiration.  Afraid to even switch on a light for fear of the additional heat output of an incandescent bulb (I guess we really should have switched to those corkscrew compact fluorescents), we oft take to the only space we have that has been blessed with air conditioning - the wacky wagon!  Everyone knows that the best distraction from flop sweats is a good, old-fashioned wander.

Thunderbird Lodge - Riverside, CA

Okay, so the A/C in the wacky wagon has seen better days but the windows do go up and down; as long as there is air circulation and incredible signage, I am far less inclined to weather-related whining.  Oddly beckoned to even hotter climes, I was completely refreshed by the coolness of the brilliant-blue letter blocks and neon thunderbird of Riverside, CA's Thunderbird Lodge (est. 1960).  Preceding the ultra-hip Southwest aesthetic of the last few years by several decades, the Thunderbird proves that a classic look will never go out of style.

Conveniently located near Riverside's many tourist attractions, I am now seriously second guessing my decision not to book one of Thunderbird Lodge's reasonably-priced rooms, if only for the sweet, sweet air conditioning.  Plus, when was the last time I had a proper "Continental Breakfast?"

Thunderbird Lodge
2711 University Ave
Riverside, CA
(951)683-2070

thunderbirdlodge.com


Cheers!

Mr. Tiny

Signs of the Times: El Trovatore Motel

El Trovatore Motel - Kingman, AZ

Kingman, AZ is a town filled with brilliant signage.  As we motored down its dusty byways, we took a quick snap of the El Trovatore Motel sign.  Obviously a later addition to the motor hotel (est. 1939), I couldn't help but love the vermillion surfboard and the individual letter blocks.  I love the unpretentious brickwork.  I love the glimpse of the Hilltop Motel sign in the distance.  I kind of hate the magenta/aqua "Historic Route 66" sign.  My very favorite element of this motel marker is the promise of "Clean Theme Rooms."  Taking a look at the offerings on the motel's own website, the theme rooms appear to be little more than framed posters on the walls of "Legendary Hollywood Icons" - the variations being Marilyn Monroe, Elvis, and Audrey Hepburn.  What more do you want for less than $45 per night?!!

And maybe Mr. Magoo...

Trying to dig a little deeper than Elvis and Marilyn, I was struck by the name of the hotel.  As it happens, "El Trovatore" translates to "The Troubador"...but not quite.  Il Trovatore is the famous Italian opera by Verdi; el trovador is Spanish for the troubador.  Was it simply lazy translation?  Was it Portuguese maybe?  Was it a motel owner cashing in on the pre-WWII opera craze?  Far be it from me to nitpick but I was at a loss.  So deep in my pondering of latin-based articles, all I could think of was "The Anvil Chorus," the most famous chorus from Verdi's Il Trovatore.

The Marx Brothers in A Night at the Opera

featuring Verdi's Il Trovatore

And then I started to wonder if there is a Marx Brothers room at El Trovatore.  The connection is so obvious: El Trovatore - Il Trovatore - Verdi - Opera - A Night at the Opera - The Marx Brothers - Hollywood - Hollywood Icon Theme Rooms - El Trovatore (it all comes full circle)!  The theory might be convoluted, but in all honesty, I think that is a much stronger connection than any Audrey Hepburn ever had to Route 66.  Nevertheless, we think El Trovatore is pretty keen for maintaining its Route 66 history and a great sign!  If you're ever stopping in Kingman, stay the night at El Trovatore and report back to us, please.

Are you a Route 66 buff?  Have you ever marveled at the beautiful signs of Kingman, AZ?

El Trovatore Motel

1140 E Andy Devine Ave

(928)753-6520

www.eltrovatoremotel.com

Cheers!

Mr. Tiny

The "Chic" of Araby: Ali Baba Motel

It is a great feeling to be traveling mindlessly down the streets of suburban Southern California one minute and in a split second be transported to the arid climes of the Mideast.  Standing sentry over Newport Boulevard in Costa Mesa, CA, the Ali Baba Motel is the stuff of myth and legend, making every visitor feel like the chicest Sheik (or Sheba) of Araby!

Ali Baba Motel - Costa Mesa, CA
Mr. Tiny, the Sheik of Failure at self-portraiture

The gleaming golden dome and the mini minarets remind drivers that California is still the land of fruits and nuts (dates and pistachios, naturally), famous for it's brilliant, if altogether anachronistic, architecture.

A view of the dome from the interior courtyard.
Don't you love the atmospheric creeping vine and those aluminum sun covers?!!
The funny part about the Ali Baba (and most roadside motels of a similar vintage) is how
 with just a few cosmetic changes the entire theme could so easily change.  Imagine the
 Capitol Dome Motel; do you think there is a sister motel in the DC area?

The magic is really in the details (like this exterior tile) that are probably
 easier to change than to maintain.  Fortunately, the Ali Baba remains
 mostly intact, setting it apart from the many themed motels that have
 been changed over the years from magic Arabian palaces to just boring,
beige Best Westerns.

A view of the oasis pool through the geometric, Islamic-style screen.
Spaces like this help me dream of really awesome 60's soirees
that are equal parts I Dream of Jeannie and The Party.

Like many of its mid-century, themed counterparts, the Ali Baba has definitely seen better days and more prestigious clientele.  Odds are that plenty of pipe smoking occurs on the premises but I think one would be hard pressed to find a proper hookah.  Moreover, I'm pretty convinced that it is the official hideout of the original forty thieves.  Nevertheless, we can dream of the Ali Baba's glory days; if I found a magic lamp it is more than likely that I'd commit one wish to seeing the Sultan's Suite (there certainly has to be a deluxe room called the "Sultan's Suite," doesn't there?) as it was in 1965.

This is how Mr. Tiny sees himself at the Ali Baba Motel.
Just the hookah, the harem, and the Sheik of Araby.

"The Sheik of Araby" - Spike Jones & His City Slickers

Do you have any wacky tacky, themed motels in your area?  What's the funniest motel in which you've stayed?

Ali Baba Motel

2250 Newport Blvd

Costa Mesa, CA

(949)645-7700

Cheers!

Mr. Tiny

Signs of the Times: Starlite Motel

When Mr. Tiny was young, I was quite the water baby.  Joyfully swimming at every opportunity, the deep end of any pool still seemed menacing and probably would have remained so if my mother hadn't believed in the full-immersion approach to shallow-end aversion therapy.  One sunny, summer day in my fourth year, my mom carried me down the street to our well-populated community pool and, filled with the strength that it would take to remove a wailing, flailing, crying child that is trying his darnedest to claw his way to the top of her head, she heaved me into the deep end and told me that I would have to swim to the edge.  Needless to to say, I did make it to the edge but I never swam again...  Okay, only the first part of the story is true; I actually continued to swim and became a contender in backstroke and freestyle - thanks, Mom.  Not only did I overcome my fear of water more than three-and-a-half feet deep, I also learned to love the diving opportunities that only the deep end could afford.  Who knew that the desert of Mesa, AZ would offer the most exciting diving I've ever seen?

Starlite Motel - Mesa, AZ

If there was a star attraction of our recent Arizona adventure, it would have to be the Starlite Motel.  We didn't even end up staying at this 1960 roadside landmark, but the wacky tacky impact of Starlite's beautiful sign was still paramount to us and the residents of Mesa.  The marquee, extending a welcome to visitors and the availability of a jacuzzi room, was pretty nice and definitely worthy of inclusion in our previous post about Main Street's amazing signs, but the sign for which the Starlite Motel is most praiseworthy is its famous diving girl.  

The diving girl is the story of a comeback kid; nearly obliterated by a powerful windstorm in 2010, the sign was blown down and left to the elements when the funds to restore her could not be raised.  The gods of wacky tacky were smiling on her when community leaders and Americana enthusiasts rallied to raise the $120,000 that was necessary for her rehabilitation.  This year, just a few short days before our visit, the reinforced sign's restoration (using the original plans) was complete and we were able to visit the surprisingly-fit, 53-year-old, 78-foot-tall diving phenomenon.

Awe struck by the majesty of it all.
Ostensibly, the sign was erected to advertise the motel's sparkling pool.
Ironically, the sign has been restored, but the pool is long gone.

As per usual, we found the sign in the glaring light of the noonday sun.  However beautiful she was, it was the least optimal hour to view the animated neon sign.  Although time was short and the Starlite's Mesa address was quite a distance from our hotel and any of our mandatory itinerary items, I vowed to return after dark to witness the diving lady in all of her neon glory.

Not just a dive, but a jackknife!

I have a strong bias towards animated neon; nevertheless, I give her a perfect 10!

It is a loosely-guarded secret that a dream of mine (one of many) is to own an historic motel and restore it with an awesome pool, a delicious coffee shop/diner, and a venue for hosting special events.  Having been bit by the same bug as Bing Crosby in Holiday Inn, it sounds like I would be treading in some pretty deep and treacherous water.  I guess I won't know until I dive in.  Speaking of diving, here is the Starlite Motel sign in action; I somehow managed to add sound effects and music to the video (far beyond my normal skill level) but, believe it or not, it wouldn't upload onto YouTube with them!  I guess once you're flagged, you're flogged!

Thus, in the beautiful hum and glow of neon, we end our Phoenix adventures; we always like to go out with a SPLASH!!!

Starlite Motel
2710 E Main St
Mesa, AZ
(480)964-2201


Cheers,

Mr. Tiny

p.s.  As a reminder, we are creeping up on 200 followers.  Lest you forget, we are marking the occasion with an unprecedented GIVEAWAY!!!  Please join in the fun!

Signs of the Times: Main Street, Mesa, AZ

We can't escape them; signs are everywhere.  If you think Boyce Luther Gulley saw a sign when he was inspired to build his Mystery Castle, then get a load of the way some people took the idea of a "desert sign" quite literally.  All along Main Street in Mesa, AZ, we were treated to bevy of beautiful neon markers for motels, hotels, and businesses of all kinds.  Here are some of the best signs that we saw.

Sunland Motel
This one reminds me of the original Del Taco logo (it might be a regional thing).
It's a shame that too few motels offer the practicality of the kitchenette.

Kiva Lodge Motel
I want this sign in the worst way.  How awesome would my western room
be with a giant Chief's head illuminated by neon?  Really awesome.

It's all about the details.
The vacancy sign masquerading as Native American pottery

Deserama Mobile Ranch
The name is pure poetry; someone needs to write a book called
 "Deserama" based on the desert's never ending awesomeness!
By the way, don't you already get the feeling that some lonely Deserama
resident really does have 55+ pets in her mobile home?

Trava-Leers Motel
This is one of my favorites because it evokes the nostalgia of 50's Disneyland.

El Capitan Lodge Motel
They've got vacancy and TV; what more could you ask for?

The Plainsman Motel

Highway Host Motel
The signs all have such a feeling of optimism and hope.
Or maybe I read too much into a white starburst...

Dairy Queen
This might not be that exciting to you, but in our neck of the woods, the
oldest Dairy Queen is in a tan, stucco building circa 1989, neon not included.

The Hambone Sports Bar & Grill
Save for the fact that I DO wear glasses and I DON'T drink beer, it looks like they knew I was coming.

El Rancho Motel
From what direction would one be approaching the old El Rancho?
Based on the arrow they were projecting a Jetsonian future where we would come in on hover cars.
How much do we love the "MOTEL" font?  But we still can't figure out what they mean by "Itscat."

Frontier Motel
Remember, at one time Phoenix was the wild frontier of America...but not for very long.
Look at the vacancy sign; with the push of a single button, a little flap goes up and visitors are UNwelcome. 

We drove up and down Main Street, Mesa at least three times trying to make sure that we didn't miss any of that amazing signage (we probably did).  The residents of Mesa sure are lucky to have such a concentration of neat signs to color the skyline of their hometown.  Do you have any amazing neon signs in your town that deserve more appreciation?

"Signs" - Five Man Electrical Band

Cheers!

Mr. Tiny