Holy Rollin': SHRINE On, SHRINE On Nippon Moon

I can't believe it has been a year since our life-changing trip to Japan.  As I see no passport-worthy adventures on the immediate horizon, I will just have to honor the one-year trip-a-versary with some heretofore unexamined material; please bear with me as I moon over our magical days in the "Land of the Rising Sun."

Throughout all of the times I've been to Japan (once, including that excursion of last year), I've become aware that the most striking quality of the country is that it is a true study in contrasts.  Never have I been in a place where the ancient coexists so peacefully with the ultra-modern.  Citizens of Japan, as a general rule, dress and comport themselves in a manner highly-conservative, abstaining from ostentatious styles, conspicuous behaviors, and talk of a loose nature; yet the sight of a businessman looking at rather lurid comic books on the commuter train is not at all uncommon.  Aggravatingly-slim, our Japanese hosts and friends regularly ate this American-sized American well under the table.  From my perspective, the people are particularly non-religious, yet they are profoundly traditional when it comes to honoring ancestors and participating in sacramental rituals.  Lucky for them that, in a very literal sense, there is a shrine and/or temple on nearly every single block.  In short, one could not throw a stone in Japan without hitting a shrine or temple...and then seeing it ricochet off at least three more.  

Tiny & Mary temple time

It should be noted at this point that, as a guest in a foreign land, I do recommend quite against the practice of throwing stones at sacred structures.  It is decidedly bad form and if I'm going to be called an "Ugly American,"  I want it to be about my face!

Who you callin' ugly?!?!!

I'm unsure if it was acceptable but, after a primer from our Japanese sister, we really got into participating in the multi-step process of Japanese holy rollin' - there is a lot of clapping and bowing.

There is also plenty of incense lighting.

And bell clanging...

And the hanging of wish/dream/prayer paddles...

But the first step is a little wash wash.

Such fans of full-immersion tourism, we practically had to be restrained from jumping in and immersing ourselves in the cool, clear water of those incredible fountains (apparently another big touristy no-no).  The bamboo dippers are used for hand-washing (and maybe drinking??? - we saw a couple folks take a sip).  Whether in rough-hewn stone or in the form of imposing dragons, the fonts are a symbolic reminder of the old saying, "Cleanliness is next to Godliness."  

The temples are timeless to an eye wholly-untrained in the history of Japanese architecture, but it seems that each new temple is even more spectacular than the last.

That roofline was indescribably beautiful. 

Even the sacred temple couldn't save us from
the-most-unflattering-camera-angle-in-the-world pose but
we wanted our faces in the picture with that ceiling and medallion.

We were lucky enough to see an afternoon service - chanting monks, incense, the whole works!

I'm partial to that imperial orangey-red!

Temple guards!

Just try rubbing the belly for good luck (his not mine)...that Buddha was more than eighty-feet-tall!

Kinkakuji (The Golden Temple) - Kyoto, Japan

The photo (taken by a kindly stranger) with our faces in it 

negates any of the breathtaking beauty of this gilded building.

For all of the loveliness and grandeur found on the beautiful grounds of these gorgeous temples, a more subtle and more personal beauty is found at the neighborhood shrines.

Okay, so maybe "subtle" isn't quite the right word.

The shrines offer convenient opportunities for daily communion.  Observers - and those far less observant - can pause during the day to express hopes and prayers (usually by jotting them down on a wooden plaque and hanging them on the edifice of the shrine).  Interestingly, many of the shrines are dedicated solely to a specific purpose, for example...

Remembering the dearly departed

Honoring historical figures (by imitating their statues)...

...or rubbing a bronze cow's nose???

Covered in baby bibs, this shrine was both heartbreaking and hopeful.
Presumably, perspective parents go to pray for the opportunity to have children.

This shrine was incredible; dreams/prayers/wishes were scribbled on tiny
scrolls of paper and tied to the branches of the trees - look out cherry blossoms!

The best shrine was found in an out-of-the-way neighborhood in Kyoto.  Of course it was our favorite because it was the most inexplicably weird and awesome - at least to our Western way of thinking.  I'm sure there is a valid and beautiful philosophy behind the shrine's purpose...but we couldn't couldn't come up with one.  Why on earth, we wondered, would there be a heavenly porcine shrine?  WHY?!?!!

The swine shrine - praying for pork?
Realizing that the Japanese are always working to prove their superior
wacky tacky cred, it seemed that the real question was, "Swine not?"

For as many temples and shrines as we visited during our tour of Japan, we never got bored with the experience.  We looked forward to the clapping, bowing, lighting, clanging, and washing opportunities to be had on nearly every street corner.  I can't wait to go back, heartily welcoming the chance to do some more Japanese-style holy rollin'.  "Shrine On, Nippon Moon!"

"Shine On, Harvest Moon" - Ruth Etting

Cheers!

Mr. Tiny

Feeling Brave at Shonyudo Cave

When offered a free trip to a hill region famous for its limestone, as a foreign traveller, it is one's duty to accept the offer - no matter how disinterested one might be in geology.  One must absolutely say "yes" no matter how difficult it is to deliver - with any measurable amount of sincerity - the line, "Did you say limestone?!?!  Oh yes, limestone is my very favorite of all of the stones.  Let us away!"

After all, one never knows what is lurking beneath the monolith-littered hillsides.

Had the verdure of the hills and the impressive concentration of limestone been the highlight of this Japanese mini-adventure, as a nature lover, I would have been satisfied.  What?!  I do love nature - looking at it, reading about it, hearing other people's stories.  Yes, I love nature as long as there is a hospital and a clean restroom within twenty-five miles.

We went on a beautiful nature walk as the afternoon sun did its best to
break through the clouds and the leafy canopy of the subtropical forest.

We stopped for a breather when Nami asked us if we were interested in exploring a cave.  I honestly think she waited to reveal the surprise cave as a test of our loyalty...apparently we passed the test with our utterly-convincing portrayal of limestone enthusiasts.

Mary, Masa, and Mr. Tiny at the Shonyudo Cave marker.
I asked Nami what the rock said and her reply was, "It's too hard."
What else would a rock say?

After my intrepid exploits in The Lost World Caverns of West Virginia, I have come to fancy myself quite the spelunker.  My second cave on my second continent - I think it's time to start writing that cave-safety book!

The entrance to the cave has all of the Japanese character for which
a tourist could ask - waterfall, trickling stream, and arch bridge.

A cadre of religious icons flank the mouth of Shonyudo Cave.
I was hoping that it was more a testament to the sacredness of the
ground and less a last-ditch prayer to avoid a calamitous cave-in.

More disconcerting than the thought of being trapped in a cave was
the communal sandals which we were forced to don in order to enter.
Fortunately, the largest pair fit.

The cave was welcoming in its beauty;
It all started out so dry and so level...

We were so taken by the stalactites, rock formations, and underground gardens,
that we almost missed the cave river.  As soon as we saw it, Nami let us in on the
second surprise of the day - the rest of the cave adventure would be done in the river!  

Mary maneuvers the shallowest part of the ice-cold water and the
narrowest parts of the rocky outcroppings.  Keep in mind that I was
doing the same whilst trying to snap photos in a Texas (Canadian)
tuxedo with jeans that wouldn't roll past my cankles.

I don't look like I'm having as much fun as Mary, but really, I am.
Visiting Shonyudo Cave was a unanimous favorite of our trip to Japan.

Sometimes I exaggerate the truth for the purposes of exciting storytelling;
I exaggerate not when I tell you that we celebrated reaching the end of the
trail by sharing the contraband, strawberry KitKat that I managed to
keep in my pocket!  We sang a song and toasted with the smuggled sweets.

Then we retraced our steps and celebrated that we made it out alive - drenched to the knee but very much alive.

We had a few slips, slides, and two-broken sandals (me) along the way but never once thought about the traveler's insurance we did not get until we had made it out unscathed.

Successful spelunkers!

We even made cave friends!
Mary and Nami said they saw a bat fly inches over my head; it was a good
thing I didn't see it because the echo of my girlish screams would have
reverberated through the cave indefinitely.  And this five-inch slug, whom we
lovingly called "poop," wished us good luck and welcomed our safe return.

Feeling lucky to have made it out without incident or
accident, we added a few coins to the pile - a small
price to pay for so many great cave memories!

Have you ever been exploring in a cave?  Do you think head-to-toe denim is appropriate cave exploring attire?

Cheers!

Mr. Tiny

My Day on Monster Mountain

This week we'll be touching on some spookily-thematic material because, all things considered, Halloween is the wackiest, the tackiest holiday of them all!   Today, we offer you a monster story...

Once upon a time, high atop a hill in Kitakyushu, Japan, lived a monster.   The monster was so fierce that the townspeople lived in constant fear of the earthquakes and tsunamis caused by his fury. 

It was all a bit like "Night on Bald Mountain" from Fantasia.

Dominating Takatoyama (the mountain), the monster prevented direct access to the seaports that supported the local economy.

Honestly, if you were a monster, you'd probably want to keep this view for yourself too.

This four-eyed, two-headed, earthbound, chartreuse people eater terrorized the land for many years until one brave enough, namely the Buddha himself, was able to capture the monster inside a statue, sealing him in with a large nail in the back.

Today, a shrine stands at the top of the Takatoyama recognizing the great courage needed to battle the beast.

Visitors light incense and leave offerings in gratitude of the monster's internment.
We took a moment to inspect the nail just to make sure that it was still quite secure.

The giant mosaic makes the monster look slightly less than threatening,
but, ever the rabble-rouser, Mary tempted fate by acting like she was getting eaten. 

With the monster secured inside the statue, school children are once again free to roam the mountain and practice their best English "Hellos" with weird American tourists.   Is there a better way to live "Happily ever after?"
I think not.

THE END

Or is it???

Not quite.  Apparently Nami and Mary had developed some sort of crazy, monster appetite after visiting Takato "Monster Mountain" Yama so we headed to the local parfait shop.

At Classic Non 1982, the options were varied and enticing.
Mary decided on the chocolate-peanut butter parfait.

The desserts of Japan, usually inspired by the French tradition, were always beautiful and never especially expensive (desserts made with similar care and ingredients in Southern California would cost at least twice as much as their Japanese counterparts).

Nami (just one day before her wedding it should be noted), managed to put away Classic Non's signature parfait.
 Bigger than her head, it contained, cereal, cookie, meringue, brownie, cake, pudding, mousse,whipped cream, ice cream, sorbet, custard, and a small farm stand's worth of chopped fruit.
I was beginning to think that this dessert was the real "Monster Mountain."

Nami did such a good job that the resident pastry chef gave her the thumbs up!

I know many of the celebrations were happening this past weekend, but the big day is still a few days away and that's why we wish you a very wacky tacky and Happy Halloween!!!

Cheers!

Mr. Tiny

Nippon Nuptials: Nami Getting Married

If there is one thing that the Japanese get right - and let's face it, they get just about everything right - it is weddings.  As I have mentioned, our latest adventure to the Far East was prompted by the nuptials of our Japanese sister, Nami, and our new brother-in-law, Masa.  And, boy howdy, did they have an incredible wedding!  With a preemptive, if altogether token, apology to my married friends, I must say that Nami and Masa's wedding was the best to which I have ever been witness.  

Unfamiliar with any part of the Japanese wedding ritual, we were beyond excited for some rich cultural immersion.  Graciously provided with a chauffeur/wedding guide/translator in the form of Nami's friend and co-worker, Kasumi, Mary and I were granted the once-in-a-lifetime privilege of seeing Nami get married in a solemn and wonderfully-traditional ceremony.

Mary with Erina (far left) and Kasumi (far right) at the pre-ceremony tea.
Unfortunately, I can't remember the name of the charming woman in the center.

The wedding - ceremony and reception - was held in a posh hotel in the heart of Kokura, Japan; it was the kind of swanky affair to which, under normal circumstances, we would surely never be invited.  Taking a few moments to observe, I saw that wedding guests were checking in at a reception desk and provided with a program that detailed the history of the bride and groom as well as the seating arrangements and a ticket for the pre-ceremony tea service.  Mildly overwhelmed and woefully inept at understanding Japanese, we were beyond grateful to have Kasumi and our new pal, Erina, to explain the protocol.  Following the tea, guests were directed to a covered patio in the hotel's massive gardens for the ceremony.  Kasumi instructed us to take a seat near the aisle so we could get a good glimpse of Nami as she entered; I know, it seems like something we could have figured out on our own but I had to laugh at myself because, honestly, without her instruction, what probably should have been obvious, was incredibly useful to these novices.

THE CEREMONY

The groom awaits his bride.

For a few moments we sat and marveled at the brilliance of the gardens when a swell of traditional Japanese music indicated that we ought look behind us to see the bride's grand entrance.  Well, despite having been given the best instruction to get an aisle seat, we were surprised to see no one at all.  With just the faintest panic that we had a runaway bride on our hands, we turned back toward the garden and saw a giant, red, paper parasol in the distance.  Nami wasn't coming down any lame aisle; as her father led the way and her mother held her hand, Nami was traversing the rocks and bridges of the gardens with her eldest brother holding the parasol.  Let me tell you, I was a basket case.  I am an unabashed crybaby but this was one of the most beautiful things I had ever seen!

Nami was an absolute vision.
So used to seeing the twenty-year-old, tomboyish surfer that
lived with us many years ago, we were blown away by her transformation
into such an elegant woman - and that did nothing to stop the waterworks.

This is the officiant.
His job duties included not only directing the exchange of vows, rings, etc., he was
also responsible for inviting God's presence to the ceremony, skillfully playing the
flute, and shaking this incredible pompom.  Serious duties to be sure but...

 Let's just take a minute to get a bit of a close up on his fiendishly
 spit-polished platform shoes, why don't we?
I guess when invoking the presence of the Almighty,
one must reach a little closer to the heavens.

I can't fully express how much I loved the ceremony.
Because I couldn't understand any of the language, the allure of the exotic was
definitely a factor.  However, I really did appreciate all of the ritualistic aspects; the
ceremony was long enough to let us know that something actually happened.

Showing off the wedding bands.

Instead of throwing rice, or blowing bubbles, or releasing balloons, butterflies, doves or any number of other releasable objects, the tradition at a Japanese wedding is to shower the couple with a scattering of origami cranes - a symbol of good luck.  As soon as we arrived we got right to work, helping to fold as many cranes as we could before the big day.

Even though this image is blurry, it is my favorite from the wedding.
Raised separately by different parents in completely different countries and cultures,
I couldn't help but feel a particular, fraternal pride in my Japanese sister as she and her
new husband beamed.  They just radiate with joy! 

THE RECEPTION

Upon entering the ballroom (Mary and I got a sneak preview), I was immediately struck by how familiar it all seemed.  Large round tables, floral centerpieces, place cards, candles - it could have easily been any wedding anywhere in the world.

Having both spent time in Southern California, the bride and groom
 dedicated each table to the different cities they had visited while in the US.

The ceiling was covered by huge, cherry-blossom chandeliers and the seats were filled with gift bags!

And then there was the eight-foot-tall wedding cake!!!

The setting appeared lovely, if somewhat expected, but that was the end of any expectations being met.  Continuing the solemnity established by ceremony, the reception maintained a formal tone...good thing I wore my tux...

Why did everyone at the wedding think that Mr. Tiny was a waiter?

The food was unbelievable (not that I really ate any of it).
I think Japanese people must have an infuriating combination of high metabolism and hollow legs;
seemingly insatiable as course after course was delivered to the table, they ate it all!!
I told everyone at our table that at an American wedding, we would be lucky to get a salad, a dinner roll, an
entree, and a piece of cake.  Not only was the food incredibly plentiful, it was all about artful presentation.

Presented in a bamboo wishing well, the piece de resistance was the sashimi course.
After serving the tray, the server told us to wait until she filled the well with magical
 liquid from a magical vessel; it became obvious that the magical liquid was water
when dry-ice fog billowed out from under the sashimi.   

The bride and groom were announced and Nami's new outfit and dramatically-coiffed hair indicated that the production - complete with lighting and music cues, retracting walls and ceiling, slickly-produced videos, spotlights, costume changes, and musical numbers - was about to begin.

Mr. & Mrs. & Tiny & Mary

Over the course of the evening, Nami changed four times.
Each change required new hair and make up as well.
This tiered bouffant, festooned with flawless, fresh flowers,
was my absolute favorite!

Get a load of that cake!!!
The secret is that the cake is a fake!

There was, however, a very real cake.
The wedding coincided with Nami's father's birthday
 and there was a birthday cake to honor him.

The evening continued with yet another costume change.  This time instead of walking through the doors, the entire wall was raised for the newlywed's entrance.

To a soundtrack of Disney songs, the couple made their way from table to table lighting a candle.
For this portion of the evening Nami wore a romantic, Western-style gown.

Tiny & Mary dedicated a tune to the new Mr. & Mrs.

After all, what adds more romance to any occasion than a brother-sister duo...

Ours was not to be the only performance.  Beyond Tiny & Mary, there was plenty of music at the reception but a complete absence of dancing.  I will freely admit that dancing is usually my favorite part of any wedding.  I will also admit that I am not a big fan of the first dance, father-daughter/mother-son dance, or my least favorite of all, the money dance; they just take a lot of time before I am allowed to get out on the floor.

Normally, I would be disappointed by the lack of getting groovy but the Japanese wedding reception, marked by tearful speeches, heartfelt letters written by brides to their parents, and dramatic rituals, sets such a dignified tone that doing the Macarena would feel downright unseemly.  And then this happened...

Apparently, it is quite the fashion to have friends relieve the decorum with a choreographed, cross-dressing, musical presentation.  It was funny...and very strange; I guess they have an ardent appreciation for wacky tacky!

After the reception, we had a chance to meet the parents!

The reception ended but the fun was just beginning.  All the young single adults were invited to an after party at the hotel's cafe.

THE AFTER PARTY

The after party is where the happy couple indulged in some Western wedding
traditions including feeding each other cake.  The kiss has no place in the
traditional Japanese ceremony and no amount of glass clinking at the
reception will elicit a smooch.  Nevertheless, the after party guests demanded
some PDA.

The Japanese even find a way to make the bouquet toss more safe and refined;
instead of an over-the-shoulder toss to a group of blood-thirsty women, the
participants each take a ribbon; the ribbons are tugged and the person
holding the ribbon that is still attached to the bouquet wins!   

Even at the after party there was no dancing!  Although, there were plenty
of games, gag gifts, and inexplicable Mickey Mouse Jack-O-Lanterns.

The funniest part was watching a video only to surprised by a photo of the
 long-ago Halloween when our family dressed up as the cast of Hairspray (the original)
with Mr. Tiny as Mr. Pinky and Nami as Motormouth Maybelle.

This post might have lasted longer than the entire wedding but I never know when to leave the party...and this was a great party!

Congratulations Nami and Masa!!!  Thank you for a wonderful trip and an amazing wedding!  We wish you a lifetime of love, happiness, and wacky tacky!!!

Cheers!

Mr. Tiny